Crystal Waterproofing Renovations

BS 8102 · Type A / B / C

Structural basement waterproofing

Waterproofing a structure below ground is a design problem before it is an installation problem. BS 8102 sets out three forms of protection, and the whole job is choosing correctly between them for the water, the structure and the use you have in mind — then detailing the junctions properly, because that is where systems fail.

PCA Property Care Association Member firm
CSSW Certified Surveyor in Structural Waterproofing Design to BS 8102
IBG Insurance-Backed Guarantees Available on completed works

The system in section

What is actually behind the wall.

EXTERNAL GROUND LEVEL WATER TABLE SERVICE PENETRATION FINISHED ROOM — GRADE 3 the structure is the waterproofing 1 2 3 4 5 6
  1. Water-resistant concrete. The structure is the waterproofing. There is no membrane and no coating to install — the mix design, the cover and the crack-control reinforcement are the waterproofing system.
  2. Reinforcement for crack control. Concrete cracks; the design decides whether it cracks in many fine, self-healing lines or a few wide ones. That distinction is the whole difference between a dry basement and a wet one.
  3. Kicker and construction joint. The joint between slab and wall is the one place the pour stops, so it is the one place water can find a path. It is set out and detailed before anything is cast, never resolved on site on the day.
  4. Cast-in waterstop. Sealing the joint from within the concrete rather than over it afterwards. Anything applied to the face of a joint is a repair; this is a design.
  5. Service penetrations. Every pipe and duct through the structure is formed with a puddle flange cast in. Core-drilling a hole after the pour and sealing round it is how a Type B basement leaks.
  6. Internal finish. Applied directly to the concrete, because there is no drained void or barrier layer to accommodate. It is the least forgiving of the three types and the most durable when it is right.
Type B protection in section. The structure itself is the waterproofing, so the joints, the kicker and every service penetration are designed and sealed as part of the concrete rather than covered afterwards.

The three types, and when each is right

Type A, barrier protection. A continuous waterproof barrier applied to the structure — cementitious slurries or spray applied membranes. It works where the structure is sound and the head of water is modest and genuinely understood. It is unforgiving of movement and of any defect in application, because there is no second line.

Type B, structurally integral protection. The structure itself does the work: water-resistant concrete with joints, construction details and service penetrations designed and sealed as part of the build. This is normally the route for new basements and underpinned extensions rather than existing cellars.

Type C, drained protection. A cavity drain membrane with a perimeter channel and a managed discharge. It does not resist water, it collects and removes it. It stays maintainable for the life of the building, and it tolerates the imperfections of a 130-year-old structure — which is why it suits most conversions of existing cellars.

Cellar waterproofing, basement damp proofing, tanking — one job, several names

People arrive here using whichever word they were given. Somebody with a wet basement searches for basement damp proofing. Somebody else searches cellar damp proofing, or cellar waterproofing. A surveyor writes basement tanking. An estate agent says the cellar has been treated. An insurer asks about structural waterproofing. Outside the trade almost nobody separates these terms, and there is no particular reason they should.

Below ground they all describe the same piece of work, and it has one correct answer: a system designed to BS 8102 against the grade of use you actually intend, built from one of the three types above. That is what every one of those searches is really looking for, and it is what we do.

What matters is not the word you used but what the water is doing. A surface coating resists moisture; it does not resist pressure. Put one on a wall with a water table behind it and it will fail, usually in the first wet winter after the decorator has been in. So a survey starts with how much water there is and what head it can develop — not with a product, and not with whatever the last person to look at it called the job.

Why the grade of use changes the design

BS 8102 defines grades of internal environment. A cellar used for storage can tolerate conditions that would ruin a habitable room. If you intend to finish the space, sleep in it, or put a home cinema in it, the design has to achieve Grade 3 — and that requirement drives the whole specification, including ventilation and vapour control, not just the membrane.

This is the single most common problem we are called in to fix: a system specified for a dry store, then plastered and furnished as a living room. It was never going to hold.

Waterproofing an underpinned basement

We do not underpin. That is structural work, carried out by a specialist contractor to a structural engineer's design, with Building Control involved and — where it happens at or near a boundary — notice to the adjoining owner under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996. What we do is the waterproofing that has to work with it, and the order is not negotiable: the structure is pinned first, then waterproofed.

What underpinning leaves behind is a wall built in bays. Each pin is excavated and poured separately, so the finished retaining wall carries a construction joint at every bay and a horizontal joint where the new work meets the old masonry above. Those joints are exactly where water comes through, which is why a newly underpinned basement is not automatically a dry one. Type B protection has to be designed into the pour itself; more often, on a domestic job, the answer is Type C over the top, because a drained system does not care how many joints sit behind it.

The job we get called back to is a basement that was underpinned beautifully and waterproofed afterwards by whoever was cheapest, with nobody having decided in advance where the drainage channel would sit relative to the new underpinning. Deciding that before the concrete goes in costs nothing. Deciding it afterwards means cutting into work that is a week old — so if you are having a basement underpinned, bring the waterproofing designer in while the drawings are still drawings.

What a proper design gives you

A written waterproofing design against the intended grade of use, produced by a CSSW-qualified surveyor. You get the drawing and the reasoning behind it, not just a price — and where the works are covered, the option of an insurance-backed guarantee on completion.

On site · our own photographs

Before any of it is waterproofing, it is preparation.

Systems and materials

What we install, and why that one.

We specify Wykamol systems for this work. Every product below carries its own datasheet and, where it exists, a BBA certificate — read them rather than taking our word for it.

Wykamol HydraFlex two-part flexible tanking membrane in a 20kg tub

Flexible tanking membrane

Wykamol HydraFlex

A two-part cementitious tanking membrane — powder and a high-concentration polymer — that stays flexible once cured. That flexibility is the reason we specify it over a rigid slurry on older masonry: it bridges cracks in the substrate rather than telegraphing them, and it keeps doing so down to −5°C. It is thixotropic, which is what makes it behave properly through a spray line instead of running off a vaulted soffit.

  • Two-component, elastomeric
  • Crack-bridging to −5°C
  • Radon barrier tested
  • 20kg unit, up to 6m²
Wykamol Technoseal liquid damp proof membrane

Damp proof membrane

Wykamol Technoseal DPM

A liquid-applied damp proof membrane for floors and for the wall-to-floor junction, where a solid floor meets a wall that has no continuous DPC. It is the material we reach for when the problem is a specific interface rather than a whole tanked box, and it links a new floor DPM back into the wall system so the two are actually continuous rather than merely adjacent.

  • Liquid applied
  • Floor and junction detailing
  • Black and white grades
Wykamol SureProof self-adhesive membrane applied to the outside face of a basement wall and turned onto the slab

External barrier — new build

Wykamol SureProof Membrane

A sheet, not a spray, and the exception that proves the rule. Every other barrier we fit goes on the inside of a structure that already exists; this one goes on the outside of a new one, in the open excavation, before anything is backfilled. That is the positive side of the wall — water pressure holds the membrane on rather than trying to peel it off — and an open dig is the only chance a building ever gives you to work there. We specify it on new basement boxes and underpinned extensions where there is a dig to work in. It is no use whatever on a Victorian cellar with a neighbour on the far side of the wall, which is most of what we do, and that is exactly why it sits here alongside the sprayed systems rather than instead of them. The primer is not optional and the laps are the job.

  • Self-adhesive, cold applied
  • Cross-laminated HDPE on polymer modified bitumen
  • External, below ground, new build
  • BS 8102 Grades 2 and 3
  • 1.05 × 19.05m roll, 20m²
Wykamol HydraDry Universal Mortar bag

Fillets, making good, penetrations

Wykamol HydraDry Universal Mortar

A waterproof mortar for the work either side of the membrane: forming the fillet at the wall-to-floor junction, making good around service penetrations, and packing out a substrate that is too irregular to take a barrier coat. Unglamorous, and it is where a Type A system is usually won or lost — a barrier is only as continuous as the corner it turns.

  • Waterproof cementitious mortar
  • Fillets and penetrations
  • Substrate preparation
Roll of Wykamol CM8 8mm studded cavity drain membrane

Walls and soffits — the default

Wykamol CM8 Cavity Drain Membrane

The 8mm studded profile, and the one we specify most often on London basements. The deeper stud gives a drainage void that keeps working when a wall is actually wet rather than merely damp, and it ventilates the cavity behind the finish. On a converted cellar under a Victorian terrace this is usually the right answer for walls, with CM20 taken across the floor.

  • 8mm studs
  • BBA certified
  • Walls and soffits
  • Grade 3–4 environments
Roll of Wykamol CM8 mesh cavity drain membrane

Walls — 8mm void, plastered direct

Wykamol CM8 Cavity Drain Mesh Membrane

The combination we use most on habitable conversions: the 8mm drainage void of CM8 with the bonded mesh face that takes plaster or a dot-and-dab finish directly. It isolates a wet wall, keeps the void working, and still gives a plastered room rather than a boarded box. Salt inhibiting and root resistant, which matters against a garden retaining wall.

  • 8mm studs, bonded mesh
  • Direct plaster or dot-and-dab
  • BS 8102:2022 Type C
  • 2m × 10m / 2m × 20m rolls
Wykamol geotextile faced cavity drain membrane

External face — protection and filtration

Wykamol CM8 & CM20 Geotextile Membrane

A geotextile-faced membrane for the external face of a retaining wall, where the studded sheet is backfilled against. The fabric stops fines migrating into the drainage void and silting it up over the following decade. A drained system that silts is a system that quietly stops draining, and it is not something anybody notices until the wall is wet again.

  • Geotextile bonded face
  • Filtration and protection
  • BBA certified
  • External / backfilled
Wykamol Waterguard perimeter drainage channel

Perimeter channel, wall-to-floor junction

Wykamol Waterguard Channel

The PVC conduit that runs the perimeter at the wall-to-floor junction — the single most vulnerable line in any basement — and carries what the wall membrane collects round to the sump. Its flange up-stand ties into the wall membrane so water cannot pass behind the channel. It is rodded through access points we position to be genuinely reachable after the room is finished, not theoretically reachable.

  • PVC, 2m lengths
  • Flanged up-stand
  • Wall-to-floor junction
  • Rodded via access points
Wykamol SumpFlo twin pump sump chamber assembly

Pumped discharge

Wykamol SumpFlo 301 & 303 Pumps

The pumps we size against a calculated inflow rather than fitting whatever was there before. The 301 moves 168 litres a minute to 6.8m of head; the 303 moves 240 litres a minute to 12.5m. Head is the figure people forget — a pump loses roughly a metre of lift for every bend in the discharge run, so the pipework route is part of the pump selection, not an afterthought once it is installed.

  • 301 — 168 l/min, 6.8m head
  • 303 — 240 l/min, 12.5m head
  • Twin pump configurations
  • Battery backup and alarm

Technical downloads

The paperwork behind the specification.

The full technical library, including the drawings manual →

Common questions

What people ask us about basement waterproofing.

How much does basement waterproofing cost?

It depends almost entirely on which type of system the ground dictates and on the perimeter length, so any figure quoted before a survey is guesswork. What we can tell you at the survey is which system is actually required and why, and what the difference in cost is between the options — including the cheaper one, if the cheaper one would genuinely work.

My basement is wet — where do I start?

Start by working out what the water actually is, because different problems look almost identical on a wall. Condensation forms on cold surfaces, is worst in winter with the room shut up, and sits on the surface rather than in it. Penetrating water follows rain and comes through a specific defect you can usually find. Groundwater arrives with the water table and is seasonal — a cellar that is bone dry in August can take water in February, which is why a survey done in the wrong month can be reassuring and wrong. A survey that does not tell you which of these you have is not a survey, and a wet basement that is really a condensation problem will not be fixed by a membrane.

Do I need damp proofing or waterproofing?

Below ground, waterproofing. Most people use the two words interchangeably and never separate them, which is fine — but a cellar or basement with ground water outside it needs a system designed to BS 8102, chosen for the head of water, the condition of the structure and the grade of use you intend. A coating applied to the inside face resists moisture, not pressure, and that is the single most common reason a cellar is wet again two winters after it was "done".

What is a damp proof membrane, and do I need one?

It is a continuous layer, liquid-applied or sheet, that stops moisture passing through a floor or across the wall-to-floor junction. We use one as a component inside a waterproofing system — typically where a solid floor meets a wall and the two need to be genuinely continuous rather than merely adjacent. On its own it is not a basement waterproofing system, because it resists moisture rather than the pressure of a water table. Which one a job needs is a survey decision; the materials we use are listed with their datasheets on our technical downloads page.

Is tanking or a cavity drain membrane better?

Neither is better in the abstract. Tanking (Type A) resists water and depends on a sound substrate and a modest, well-understood head. A cavity drain membrane (Type C) manages water instead and stays maintainable. For an existing Victorian cellar being converted to habitable use, Type C is usually the safer engineering choice; for a sound structure with limited water, Type A can be entirely appropriate and costs less.

How long does basement waterproofing last?

A correctly designed Type C system is intended to last the life of the building, but it is a maintainable system rather than a maintenance-free one: the pump and the drainage channels need periodic servicing, and that requirement is part of the design. A Type A barrier has no serviceable parts, which sounds better until it develops a defect, because there is then nothing to maintain and no way to reach it.

Do I need planning permission to waterproof a basement?

Waterproofing an existing cellar generally does not require planning permission. Excavating to lower the floor, extending the footprint or creating a new basement usually does, and several London boroughs — Camden and Kensington & Chelsea among them — require a Basement Impact Assessment as part of that. Building Regulations apply once the space becomes habitable regardless.

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